Bruxelles and Cuba

Now Reading: Echo Park (well, they can't all be European!)

Did them both in one day. Private jet? No, Hotel Welcome in Brussels... has 18 internationally themed rooms, so I spent the night in Cuba - minus the cigars and dictator.

Spent the day in Brussels today - coldest, rainiest weather I've seen my entire trip - but frankly it's a relief to have a few spring showers. If I wanted non-stop sun, I would have stayed in LA.

After a bit of time browsing the chocolates, beer and other belgian specialties on the Grand Place, I decided to pick up some frites (fries for the uninitiated), but passed on the mayo dip. They were terrific, as expect... actually reminded me of the thick chips I used to get from the chip trucks in Toronto as a kid.

With the gloom and cold in full effect, I broke one of my own travel rules and sought the easy warmth of a double-decker sight-seeing bus. Was a first for me, and just as lame a way to see the city as I expected. It's like watching the whole thing on TV. That said, not a bad way to get around to major sites since you can hop-on and hop-off all day.

Did 90 minutes of that... then hopped off and onto the metro in a hurry to try and catch the 15:00 tour of the EU parliament. Let me tell you, with all the giant poorly marked buildings in the region of the Schuman metro stop, they certainly don't make it easy to get there. Nor do the various security folk who were very nice, but I'm convinced just giving directions for the sake of giving directions - not really so focused on actually getting me where I needed to go.

I rolled up to the visitor entrance (after covering a good 2km in a mad dash) to the parliament right as the tour was commencing. Really consists of 30 minutes of canned audio guide and viewing of a couple spots and the main chamber... but it's still interesting to sit there and consider the meeting of 27 nations, speaking in 20+ languages. With that level of complexity, even the smallest things are interesting: as we sat there, the staff was putting handouts on the desk of each MEP (member of european parliament), and I realized as they skipped chairs that they must be handing them out in the local language of each member. So, every hand-out, every speech, every comment, has to be delivered in 20 languages (and growing). Poor interpreters. Oh, and the best part of the tour - it's free, and you get to keep the headphones. ;)

Stroopwafels

What is a Stroopwafel, you ask? Absolutely fantastic.

Arnhem, Oosterbeek and Poffertjes

I'm down visiting my Great Aunt in a little town called Oosterbeek - just outside of Arnhem (that's still in the Netherlands). Apparently when last we saw each other, she was teasing me (we think about the whole vegetarian thing, as usual) - and I was running off to escape it. That was 23 years ago, give or take, in Oakville.

We spent some time in town and the local park yesterday, as well as visiting with my Great Aunt Janine's daughter Janine, who is - what, also a great aunt? I don't know - all very confusing. In any case, she's an artist (I didn't realize it ran on both sides of my family), and had some really interesting stuff she was preparing for a local art exhibition. Also a fantastic swimming pool that is actually a man-made pond that maintains itself - as long as you don't mind swimming with the tadpoles inhabiting it, you get to avoid the whole chlorine thing. Also looks beautiful. Didn't have my camera on me, but will try to grab a pic before I leave.

Today we visited the National Park De Hoge Veluwe, which houses the Kroller-Muller museum, and also has a quaint little throw-back to NL's roots - 1500 free white bikes that anyone who enters the park can use to traverse the 40km of bike paths within. But perhaps most fascinating to me was the big patch of white sand and sand dunes in the middle of the park... it's surrounded by forest and seems completely out of place, but great fun to traverse.

Oh yes, on my way out of Haarlem, I stopped at a little Poffertjes stand in the main square. Poffertjes are a traditional dutch treat - basically little mini pancakes usually served with butter (lots of butter, it seems) and powdered sugar. Very tasty - give 'em a try when next you're in the area.

Haarlem

Decided to take a break from Amsterdam and head to Haarlem, a smaller town about 15 minutes to the west. Famous for housing Holland's oldest museum (Teylers) and of course, for giving that -other- Harlem it's name, back when New York was New Amsterdam. So far, I can honestly say I prefer the Dutch version to the American one.

Looking Back

Now Reading: Diary of a Young Girl by Anne Frank (link is to a diff. version, but close enough)

My current book felt like required reading after a visit to the Anne Frank house (see my leaf). Sure enough, it really does bring the house to life - and she was a great writer, especially for someone so young. I always felt that reading about 8 people stuck in the back of a house for 2 years would be a little dry, but because she doesn't hold back on her feelings, and since they do have some exposure to the events transpiring around them, it is a far more interesting glimpse than I imagined. The living accomodations were larger than I expected, but a prison is still a prison - and with 8 people, I imagine that space got eaten up fast.

Speaking of eating (worst... segue... ever), I decided to sample some ethnic Dutch food, but since that generally means meat, cheese, herring and pancakes.. I went with the other "Dutch", namely Indonesian, which I don't recall ever having before. Indonesia used to be a Dutch colony, and I'm told that there is some Indonesian in my bloodline, which may explain the dark hair. I digress. I went with a vegetarian menu that included corn soup, haricots (green beans) in some sauce, tempeh in some other sauce, corn fritter and something in a peanut sauce. I know, these decriptions are fantastic... mind like a steel trap. It was pretty good. Very similar to Thai.

Next I was off to the Van Gogh museum. Fascinating stuff... I love his use of color, and the way he employed pointillism in a more chaotic manner than most. Especially appreciated the self portrait with grey felt hat that he did in Paris in 87/88. That was enough museum for me for the day, maybe the Rijksmuseum a little later.

Nederlands

Arrived in Amsterdam last night. I've been staying in small hotels, but for the first time I'm actually staying in a hostel - my own room (if you can call it that, my walk-in closet in LA was bigger), but a shared bathroom. The accomodations are certainly nothing to write home (or to a blog) about, but the location is outstanding. Just behind Leidseplein, which is one of Amsterdam's liveliest squares... right around the corner from restaurant row and the major museums, and a short walk up to Dam square, shopping on Kelverstraat, the train station, etc.

I stopped at Wok and Walk for some quick-serve whole-wheat noodles w/ tofu, then at Australian for a waffle and what I assume is Australian ice cream which, I have to say, tasted strangely buttery. Buttery chocolate chip ice cream - that's a new one.

Today I did some window shopping on Kalverstraat, dropped by the Palace/Town Hall in Dam Square, had a quick 50cl of Holland's finest bier just off the square (where I discussed accents with my Brit waitress) and then over into the red light district. Grabbed some pictures of the Oude Kerk (old church, begun in about 1300) and then dropped my camera in my bag, as advised, before wandering the narrow alleyways housing the world's oldest profession. I also picked up an FAQ from the Prostitute Information Center... to share with those of you who have questions when I get back. ;)

The most interesting part? The fact that a daycare called Princess Juliana sits literally right next door to some women posing half-naked in windows underneath their red lights. I hope they offer sex-ed.

A Palace and a Pita

Begrudgingly left Cinque Terre a couple days ago... back to France. Paris does feel strangely like home, now. Except for all those people speaking french.

The spring showers have arrived, and frankly, I'm relieved. I'm also wet.. might be time to buy an umbrella.

Headed for the Latin Quarter today - specifically to the Jardin du Luxembourg which has been recommended to me by 2 parisians, now. I know when to listen. One told me that they often do photography exhibits on the fence surrounding the gate close to the Pantheon. Indeed they had one up focused on life in Africa. It was more composed of story-telling shots than it was "wow, look at that picture" shots... but interesting none-the-less.

The park itself isn't huge, but very nicely laid out.. felt relaxing even with the glut of people, and of course it has Luxembourg palace on the premises. I walked in to discover a bandstand with an orchestra playing to a very large crowd. Wandered past some statues, and more statues, and yet more statues, some baby ducks swimming in a fountain, a pond, people playing tennis and petanque, the statue of liberty (no, I'm not kidding), tons of green park chairs... oh and more statues.

After that, headed up to St. Michel to grab a falafel at Maoz. The rain started, so I ran for the relative cover of the trees in Jean-XXIII Square behind Notre Dame. Mmm... soggy falafel.

Had to abandon my plans to visit Le Grande Arche de La Defense - but will head there this weekend. Au revoir!

Taking a Hike

Honestly, I'm at a loss for words to describe the hike I took today. Other than to say that I've done my fair share of hiking, a lot of trails by coasts... and the walk I took between Vernazza and Riomaggiore today put them all to shame. Not even close. Helps that the trails for the most part are pretty rugged, and difficult - makes it feel more earned... especially that constant uphill part between Vernazza and Corniglia.

I also advise against carrying a large suitcase up the first part of the trail to some hotel that is at the top of the hill, but I'm Canadian, and when I see people in distress I have to help - comes with the citizenship.

Anyways, I'm going to let the pictures do the talking when I get back to Paris and upload them. My camera is still smoking... prepare for the glut of images.

The 5 Villages

Now Reading: Pompeii by Robert Harris (brings the ruins even more to life, should have read it first)

After a long train ride north, I arrived in Vernazza - the most talked-about of the Cinque Terre towns, and my home for the next couple of days. The train ride from La Spezia up the coast is such a tease... keeps flashing increasingly impressive sea views at you, then covering them with a tunnel. Thankfully, Vernazza has a pretty sweet sea view itself, and I imagine the hiking trails I wander along the coast tomorrow will be similar to or better than the train's vantage point.

Had a fantastic funghi pizza at the harbor, staring out at the water... then continued the staring sitting on some rocks just above the raging water. I went down onto the end of the harbor to take a few pics... it was wet, but I figured "what the heck". You know what happened next... a giant wave struck and soaked the bottom of my jeans and shoes, much to the amusement of those sitting nearby. All in a day's work... I got some great shots, so I'll live with wet feet.

Volcanic

I'm starting to second-guess my appreciation for an internet cafe-slash-bar. Or maybe realizing why people do this backpacking trip when they're 20 and immune from morning after-effects.

Anyways. I spent the day exploring ruins (both past and present-day ones - more on that later). Started on the Circumvesuviana local train to Ercolano, home of the Herculaneum ruins, Pompeii's less-visited, but apparently better-preserved cousin. I spoke about 10 seconds ago about modern-day ruins... welcome to Ercolano. Truly the dirtiest, ugliest Italian town I've seen to date. Not surprising given that it's a suburb of Naples, no beauty queen itself. That said, I have never seen streets so littered with giant piles of garbage... reminds me of some sand hills I used to climb and jump down as a kid near St. Catharines, ON. I had planned to visit the ruins here, grab a bus up to Visuvius, then come back to Pompeii. Unfortunately, the 2 tourist offices I visited couldn't agree on where the bus left from or when it left. The more trustworthy one said the last bus was leaving in about an hour, so I decided to skip Herculaneum this go-round (I'll get you next time, Herc.... next time!).

Believe it or not, the bus did show up - almost on time - and brought us up to the entrance to Vis... oh wait, he's taking a detour and stopping at some strange gift shop down a dead-end road on the mountain (pardon the mix of past and present-tense, teach - you know who you are). Well, how nice - some older gentleman welcoming us in 5 different languages and saying he'll be selling us the bus tickets, once we finish our 20 minute or so stop at his snack bar/gift shop. No one really knows quite what to do, but we talk a bit and I buy a bottle of water. Now on to the tickets - 7.30 euros... that seems higher than I remember reading about, but I don't have the book with me, so can't be sure, and I find it quite likely this bus driver could just leave me here with this twilight zone family and their 5 overly aggressive dogs. 7.30 it is. (P.S. Book said 3.10).

Finally arrived at the entrance to Mt. Vesuvius, which is mainland Europe's biggest active volcano (it's dwarfed, however, by Mt. Etna on Sicily) and of course - the one that both destroyed and preserved Pompeii. It's a fair hike up to the lip of the volcano, about 30-45 mins uphill on loose gravel/lava rock... yet is broken up by the random addition of gift shops on the way up, and at the very end of the trail. This is one of those times I would gladly trade away convenience to have a more pure experience, but regardless - with the clouds swirling around, it still has a great mysterious and ominous feel to it. Hoping my pics do it justice - to be posted when I get back to Paree.

Got back on a bus to Pompeii and befriended a nice young couple from Austria who have been traveling to a new country/city every year for 15 years together. Passed the time on the ride remarking at crazy Italian driving, the piled-up garbage in comparison to the cleanly streets of both Austria and Canada. They got off and headed back to Naples, I dove into the ruins. Really remarkable... at first glimpse, it felt like every other ruin I've been to, but when I started walking around and realized it still felt like a town... houses, public baths, temples, swimming pools, market, ampitheatre, etc.. it really sparked my imagination. Really could start to feel what it might have been like living there about 2000 years ago.

Back to Sorrento, back to the bar. ;) Until next time - live long and prosper. Oops, that's be Vulcanic. My bad.

Positively Positano

Got a little bit of a late start today - that's what I get for sitting in a bar all night. However, was still an eventful day - spent the early part getting familiar with Sorrento, and the afternoon in Positano climbing the streets. Highlights:

- Stray dog at the marina trying to find a way to the other side of the fence to play with some stray cats that were not as eager to have his company
- Guessing which stop on the local Campania bus line was actually Positano - not really caring because the views of the Amalfi coast were stunning
- Reading on the dock with feet dipped in the clear blue Tyrrhenian Sea
- The lack of pedestrian space at what the Positanans (is that a word?) like to call a bus stop - otherwise known as an intersection of 3 roads at the top of a cliff
- Meeting a tri-generation family (read: grandmother, mother, daughter) from Vancouver who are traveling Italy together for 19 days
- Crazy guy wandering in front of the patio where I was eating dinner - using his CD player as a cell phone and giggling like a school girl

One piece of parting advice - if you scare easily, do not ride in the seat behind the bus driver on the drive down the Amalfi coast. Whoa.

Settling into Sorrento

Ciao!

I'm sitting in a bar called Insolito on what I believe to be Corso Italia (cut me some slack, I've been wandering aimlessly for some time now), Sorrento's main drag. I haven't figured out why the keyboard is positioned below my knees, but otherwise - cool place.. sports bar/disco. I arrived in Naples this afternoon by EasyJet and caught a handy bus straight down to my home for the next few days. After an hour or so of confusion trying to find my B&B, I arrived at Villa Anna - and was shown to a private apartment, that frankly, is probably bigger and better equipped than my place in Paris. Beautiful place - behind a private gate, lemon trees at the ready, little bit off the beaten path, but very close to the center of town. Couldn't ask for more, and the price is incredible. Trust me.

Enjoyed a dinner for one outdoors at a nice little extremely tourist-friendly (as is most of Sorrento, btw) restaurant on Piazza A. Lauro. The pizza looked terrific and light (a look from last trip), in the way only southern Italy can do, but I had to go with the namesake Gnocchi Sorrento. Absolutely fantastic, as was the giant "glass" of house wine they served me.

I think I'm going to like this place. Now if you'll excuse me - my vodka tonic awaits.

Le Musee & Le Reservoir

Dropped by the Picasso museum yesterday, housed in the Hotel Sale mansion in the Marais. It's interesting, because while Picasso's more famous works are housed elsewhere, this place gives you a chance to witness his artistic development through the years, and see some of his more "flights of fancy" stuff - e.g. the paper-mache goat. Also shows off sketches/studies, sculptures that were in his studio, and even some photography. Also has a nice little cafe out back where I had a terrific (albeit marked up) tart au fraise.

In the evening, my new french friend took me to Le Reservoir - a great restaurant/bar with live music. Last night, it was "Liberty Doc" - so named, I found out, because the band members are also all doctors. They were quite good and, surprisingly, sung almost entirely in english. Apparently even non-english speakers here tend to prefer english music, I suppose because there's more of it to choose from. I Will Survive in a french accent was particularly enjoyable.

A Note on Pictures

Most of you will be happy to hear that I've narrowed down my trip pictures to a set of my personal favorites - much easier to peruse. You can get to them by clicking on any of the 5 shown in the little Flickr widget on the right-hand side.

I didn't like having my every fuzzy, badly lit picture available to the public - so I've made all the others private - available only to friends and family. If you just can't get enough of browsing them, join Flickr and add me as a friend and *poof* they'll be back. That is assuming you're actually a friend, of course. If not, well - tough.

Random Shopping in Paris

I left a somewhat necessary grooming item at home. It's now in storage in LA - little hard to get to.

So, with that - I went on a mission to find a new one in Paris. Just down the street from me on the corner of Rue de Rivoli and Rue des Archives is a major department store called BHV. Fascinating place - it seems to be a Saks meets Best Buy meets Home Depot meets Sears kind of store. Narrow description, I know - but not sure how else to help you picture it. I'm still at a loss around the logic of the Hardware/Perfume floor (I kid you not) but I suppose it's one way to keep couples shopping together. On the Kitchen remodeling and random small appliances floor - I found what I was after. Mission 1 accomplished - on to round 2.

Next step was picking up some guidebooks for the rest of my trip. I guess it failed to dawn on me that once I was here, finding english language travel books might be a challenge. There are a number of english language bookstores, but they seem to focus on specific genres, primarily fiction, rather than a full selection like a US bookstore. WH Smith came to the rescue, though - they have a full English language store near the Louvre, though the prices... ooo la la. Still, I got what I needed for Krakow, Prague, Germany, Amsterdam and Brussels - so Mission 2 accomplished.

Was there a mission 3? Can't remember - but I spent the rest of the beautiful sunny day wandering along the Seine and through the Tuileries.