Italian Coast - Take 2

Back in Paris for a week, but on May 8 - I am taking another run at Italy. Starting down in Sorrento - touring Pompeii, Capri and the Amalfi Coast. Then heading back to Cinque Terre, where I have actually managed to secure a room in Vernazza - apparently the best town to stay in. I guess it pays to plan ahead on occasion.

Cooking, Exploring and Eating (and Eating) in Tolfa

My last stop before my aborted/postponed Cinque Terre trip was Fontana del Papa, in Tolfa - a little hill town about an hour north of Rome. I stumbled across their site while searching for Veggie-friendly cooking classes in Tuscany. At first, I was hesitant, because I was set on being in Tuscany - not down near Rome. Thankfully, I had the good sense to change my mind and book with Assuntina and Claudio at FdP. I knew I had made the right decision when I got an e-mail from Assuntina just before my stay telling me she had discovered my blog and was following my adventures in Paris (she was a teacher in France in a past life).

I arrived at Fumicino airport from Barcelona, and was promptly picked up by Assuntina for the drive back to Tolfa. What a drive - only an hour outside of Rome, and we're suddenly on small winding roads cutting through hills where horses and various wildlife roam beside us. Assuntina tells me that a lot of it is public land where the owners of the animals pay "rent" to allow them to roam.

When we arrived at FdP, I was struck by the fact that not only did their villa look exactly like the pictures on their site - it was that much better in person. The result, I came to find out, of 3 years of hard work by Assuntina & Claudio to transform an abandoned, overgrown home with a collapsed roof into what can only be seen now as a luxury villa. I was amazed at the vision and commitment it must have taken to go from the before pictures they showed us to the end result I was now seeing.

I spent the afternoon wandering and taking pictures, before sitting down to a home-cooked meal with the only other guests staying at the same time - Arthur and Bobbie, an incredibly nice and well-traveled older couple from NJ. At first I found it strange that Assuntina, Claudio and the kids didn't join us - but I realized they were much too busy making sure everything was just right. Also - if you host people every day, I imagine you'd want a little time alone with your family.

The next day we awoke to an incredible breakfast of pastries/donuts, yogurt, cereal, bread, preserves, and fresh-squeezed blood-orange juice. I even got into the ritual of the morning cappuccino, despite not being a coffee drinker. After that, we were put to work for the first of our 3 cooking experiences - which took us from making and rolling pasta, to preparing sauce, to picking vegetables and greens from the garden, to making a vanilla cake. All under the (Italian-only) instruction of Gabriella - a great cook hired by the family. Despite the communication barrier, I got the distinct impression we did a pretty good job... and what fun is learning Italian cooking from someone who speaks english?

When not cooking, we were eating, when not eating, we were being endlessly escorted by Claudio and Assuntina to various local towns and attractions... the town of Tolfa and the Fortress of the Frangipane, the Etruscan painted tombs at the necropolis, and the accompanying museum in a palace in Tarquinia, a street market in Assuntina's hometown of Allumiere and of course a restaurant that clearly knows Claudio well and served us food for 12 people (there were only 4 of us), along with the best (and only) lemon gelato drink I've ever tasted in my life. This is the Italy you'd never see by following the beaten tourist path.

With all of that, it still managed to be the most relaxing part of my trip thus far... because really, it just felt like home (except for that Turkey who insisted on gobbling outside my window every morning - that doesn't happen often in LA). I think that's the highest praise anyone can offer for a trip like this.

My New Favorite Fast Food Place...

http://www.maozveg.com/

Best of all, it started in Holland. Apparently one just opened in Union Sq. in NYC, for you state-siders who want to check it out.

The Best Laid Plans...

You know what they say about the best laid plans. Well, that has absolutely no applicability to the position I found myself in yesterday. I'd been having trouble booking a hotel in Cinque Terre, so when I finally found availability at an expensive hotel in La Spezia for 1 night, I grabbed it and figured being local I could get some help finding a hotel in Vernazza or Monterosso, right in the 5 towns. Problem is, there was absolutely nothing to be found - I hadn't taken into account that it was an Italian holiday weekend, and the locals had been a little smarter and booked ahead.

(Aside - did you know Italy celebrates the end of World War II with an official "Liberation Day" holiday? That was last week - it's Labor day that's gumming up the works now, but I find it interesting none-the-less)

I felt a bit of a cold coming on, so rather than go hang out in Milan and wait for the holiday to pass, I decided to high-tail it back to Paris and do a second take on Italy in about a week and a half. So, here I sit - finally with access to a real computer/connection again, so more updates to come.

P.S. Passed through the Alps in the daylight for a change - amazing - can't wait to get back for my hike in June.

The Two+ Faces of Madrid

Whew - time flies. I'm sitting in an ¨easyInternetcafe¨ on La Rambla in Barcelona. My previous attempts to post updates were thwarted by a computer in Zaragoza that liked to randomly shut down during long blog posts (that sound you hear is me knocking on wood).

My time in Spain began in Madrid - which also turned out to be the most interesting stop. First, a quick background... my friend Michelle was kind enough to come out and visit me for the Spain part of my trip (and do most of the planning - that was a welcome relief). I think it's fair to say that Madrid had us running the gamut of impressions/feelings. Starting with underwhelmed, moving on to happy and relaxed, followed by surprised, angry & frustrated.

Allow me to explain. Madrid at first glance is a little dry... some nice architecture, but mostly just a bustling metropolis like any other. Don't ask me what I was expecting... that's just my first impression. As we walked around a little and discovered a few plazas, back alleys, bridges, Cathedrals and especially Parque del Retiro, the city started to grow on me. Sitting in the park, sun up, beer in hand, boats rowing by on the lake a few feet from us - hard not to appreciate the setting... cue happiness and relaxation.

The next day we're sitting at an Internet cafe (one of my many attempts to post to this blog) and a woman bumps into my chair while sitting in the one behind me. I push forward thinking nothing of it, but not 2 minutes later we get up to leave and Michelle has an awful realization - her wallet is gone. So is the woman who sat down behind us. Doesn't take a lot to figure out what happened there... especially with Spain's reputation as a haven for pick-pocketers. Cue surprise and anger. Unfortunately, despite growing up in NY, Michelle dropped her guard for a second and that's all it took. Not surprisingly, the guys at the internet cafe were completely uninterested in helping - suggesting only that we check the garbage cans outside, as naturally the thief probably just wanted the cash and would toss it as quickly as possible. Problem is, the garbage cans were all covered and locked. The policia we flagged down spoke little english and suggested we call and file a report on some english line. Cue frustration. I'll spare you details of the rest of the day, but suffice it to say it was not spent exploring museums like first planned.

All in all, Madrid provided some good exploration, some good meals, and some good opportunities to relax in true Spanish style - unfortunately the prevelance of petty crime and apparent disinterest in doing anything about it overshadowed and spoiled any positives.

P.S. Pics to come as soon as I find a computer that will let me upload them.

Spain & Italy

Leaving for Madrid today, then on to Barcelona, cooking school north of Rome and Cinque Terre. Any recommendations?

Posts will be a little more sparse while I'm in the road. Back in Paris in early-mid May.

June 6, 1944

I visited Caen and the Normandy landing beaches yesterday. Everything I read said I'd need more than a daytrip from Paris to really appreciate all that there is to see and fully understand the history. I can definitely confirm that's true. Unfortunately, I only had a day - but thankfully with a skilled guide, I was still able to take in a fair bit of the history.

Unlike Vimy Ridge, I don't think anyone needs a recounting of D-Day. It's one of those moments that everyone remembers, and it's amazing to me how one day can so impact the memory surrounding an entire region. While life goes on, and builds up around the area (what's with the big houses with bay windows and the Hotel/Casino overlooking Omaha Beach?), it is still unmistakably the place where so many thousands died in one dramatic moment in history.

Even 60+ years later, it's hard not to be moved standing in the American Memorial Cemetary at 4:30 while they lower the US flag to the playing of Taps. Clearly everyone there felt the same way, as a hush fell over the area and lasted quite a while. It's equally hard not to be awed, and strangely proud, standing on Omaha beach looking up at the high cliffs, still littered with German gun emplacements, that the Americans had to contend with when they landed that day.

"Never in the field of human conflict, has so much, been owed by so many, to so few!" - Winston Churchill

Pictures.

Remembering Vimy Ridge

In case you didn't know, I'm Canadian. And though I got this strange desire to look up the "I Am Canadian" commercials earlier today (check out Shatner's version), I am not going to go on a rant.

Rather, I mention it because there was an event 90 years ago that a lot of people look at as a key moment in defining Canada as a country -- both to the global community and to ourselves. It happened Easter Monday in 1917, in Northern France, at a place called Vimy Ridge. A strategic vantage point held by the Germans in WWI - one that seemed inassailable, based on the failure of both the French and British to recapture it earlier in the war. However, on that day 90 years ago, the four divisions of the Canadian Corps, fighting as one single force for the first time, captured Vimy Ridge. This was a key milestone for Canada, but also for WWI, because the vantage point provided by the ridge was extremely important in repelling German attacks in the area throughout 1918.

I am certainly not reciting this from memory, though we obviously learned it in Canadian history. I decided to research it when I had the embarassing realization that the 90th anniversary was being celebrated just north of me, and I remembered next to nothing about what took place there. And while I have been planning a trip to the beaches of Normandy, I had completely ignored the history of Vimy. Needless to say, I will be visiting the newly restored monument while I'm in France, and doing a better job of remembering the sacrifices made by our countrymen.

-The Vimy Memorial

Cheers to New Friends

Yesterday was my birthday. (Did you send a present?)

I expected to spend it alone in Paris, which would not be the worst thing in the world, and a reasonable price to pay for a spring trip to Europe.

As fortune would have it, though - I met a new local friend on Wednesday, and after dinner and drinks on the Champs Elysees, she was kind enough to offer to take me out again for my b'day - this time to a relatively newly built up part of the 12th arrondissement (what's an arrondissement you ask? Click.), and a little 'plaza' called Bercy Village.

Coming from the Marais, and central Paris - it was strange to see this area, but also kind of comforting to see a part of the city that looks like any other city. The 'interior' of Bercy Village is still unique, but not that far removed from the feeling of a Carmel or Santa Barbara. Outside its boundaries, it's freeways, apartments and office buildings. There's also a Starbucks, which is apparently still a recent addition to Paris life.

Had a great asparagus risotto (mine is better, but a fair runner-up) at a wine bar/restaurant called Chai 33, and then drinks at a bar called, yes, The Frog. My new friend ran into someone she knew, and invited him over - hilarious guy, who entertained us with stories about visiting America (for example, a Texan who talked to him on a plane for 20 mins before asking him about his accent. Upon learning he was french - he immediately turned and went silent the rest of the trip) and explained french women to me.

It all seemed kind of surreal as I walked back through the now quiet, dimly lit streets of the Marais - but all in all, nice way to spend a birthday.

Parlez Vous Anglais?

An aside... it's true what they say about Paris, outside of the tourist zones, people really do not speak english. Who knew shopping for groceries and allergy medication could be an adventure? And who knew saying "Quoi?" over and over again wouldn't solve it? I'm going to have to start watching some TV en francais.

Touring Le Marais (with just a touch of Ile de la Cite)

Three days in and I'm falling behind on posting already - doesn't bode well for you avid readers out there (there must be at least one of you, right Larry?).

The weather in Paris has been absolutely beautiful - nice spring days, very comparable to being home in MDR. I had planned to hit a few museums on the right bank, but once I started walking, I couldn't convince myself to go inside - so focused on just seeing a little more of the Marais.

The walk in pictures...

Started out just downstairs from my apartment at the Marche des Enfants Rouges (Market of the Red Children? Don't ask me.). It was built in 1615 under the rule of Louis XIII - which makes it the oldest market in Paris, and older than America or Canada, for that matter.

After that I beelined for Place des Vosges, another gift from Louis XIII which houses some amazing architecture, Victor Hugo's house, and a great little park. Park is interesting in that it's split into 4 quarters, and it seems people are allowed to sit and hang out on 2 of them... but not on the other 2. At least that's my assumption based on the people crammed into one side, while the green lay bare on the other. Did I mention that my beeline was actually in the exact opposite direction, and took me out past my map's range before I realized what had happened? Ups and downs to this while untouched street system in the Marais, to be sure (Yes, I'm blaming it on the streets - let's see them dispute it). Ahem, Place des Vosges... what used to be upscale housing for Paris' elite is now a great combination of cafes and boutiques, and a not as great section of boarded up emptiness that made me feel like I was in a lonely back alley just steps away from the bustling part of the square.

From PdV (as those in the know like to call it - at least I assume so) I wandered south across the bridge to Ile St Louis, where you can get right down by the Seine and wander under the bridges. Mysterious sight as you do so... there are tents set-up for the homeless - apparently given by Doctors without Borders to shelter people during winter/harsher times of the year. Wondered if they'd let me set up a tent on the beach in MDR... I could probably put in some hardwood floors and turn it around for $500k.

As I crossed over to Ile de la Cite, I ran into this cute older couple - the guy was playing violin while his wife/partner held the sheet music. He was quite good - so many of us were trying to take his picture, as you'll see by my fellow cameraman caught in this pic.

At Notre Dame, I just hung out and enjoyed a Crepe au fromage in Jean-XXIII Square, before heading back home for another baguette w/ gouda.

Bonjour Paris

I have arrived in Le Marais! To commemorate, here's a picture of me with everything I own for the next 3 months...

Score One For Canada

I like to think of myself as spontaneous. Sto says I'm more of a calculated risk-taker. The reality is, I just hate planning ahead. Which left me about a week away from my 3-month trip to Europe with no plane ticket (don't even ask how my packing is going). I always assume that some combination of searching, air miles, airline elite status, etc. will get me a ticket anywhere I want to go at a reasonable price. And, within North America, I've always been right.

Paris - not so much. Prices have skyrocketed since I was last there, and even piecing together my own connections and flying airlines I'd never heard of (Air Tahiti Nui from LA to Paris - what?), I couldn't get it to the level I wanted.

Then I had a brainstorm... Canada. The mother land. Surely my kindler, gentler nation would not be as inclined to gouge fliers under the guise of rising oil prices. And, wouldn't you know it - like a trusty old friend I haven't seen in a while, Air Canada still delivered. They had fares from Toronto at HALF the price of any US airline, even compared to other east coast ports. Factor in a cheap flight from LA to TO, and I still saved a bundle.

Now at the end of my trip, I'll be hanging in Toronto for a while and visiting folks around the east coast that I didn't get to see before leaving.

For those keeping score... Canada 1 - US 0.