Gelato

Amorino. It's official - this is the best Gelato in Paris. In fact, it may be the best frozen thing to touch my tongue in my young life. Don't tell Italy... they'll hate me.

While I'm here, since I skipped a bit of posting while touring the UK - a couple random questions.. please weigh in:

1) Why is there such an unbelievable shortage of garbage cans in London? I almost had to take my trash with me back to Paris.
2) Is there a reason people seem to feel free to break wind at any time, in any place in Ireland?

Today is officially my last day in Europe, but my travels continue to Toronto - so if anything fascinating happens, the posts will continue.

Au revoir!

Alps Revisited

You may recall my somewhat angry post from the valley of Chamonix earlier this month. I thought I would give a visual to help explain. In the pic below, the red circle is about where I was, the red arrow is pointing generally where I needed to get to... and I should mention that my right knee had opted to administer shooting pains with every downward step. 4000 or so feet down, lightning storm most of the way, ran out of drinkable water at the top. No one to blame but myself, but as you'd imagine... in that moment, it's more fulfilling to blame everyone else. Took about 5 hours to hobble down.

The second picture is the visual equivelant of my frame of mind when I made that post. I may look happy, but look again.

There Once Was a Man from Nantucket...

Oh, admit it - when you hear the word "Limerick", that's the first thing you think of, too.

And strangely, a dirty joke seems entirely appropriate for the town of Limerick, Ireland - which seems to be a small industrial town utterly devoid of character. To be fair, I've only spent one cold, overcast day here.. but usually walking around the core gives you a pretty good sense for the place, and the sense I got was "dirty" and "uninspired". When hearing I was coming here, my cab driver in Cork said "Ah, going to Stab city are ye"... a nickname Limerick apparently received because it is home to a lot of gang violence. Amusing how Dubliners look down on Cork, and Corkies (I made that up) look down on Limerick.

I actually found Cork somewhat charming in a dirty way, and the core around St. Patrick

St. has been renovated nicely over the last few years to give it a modern cosmopolitan feel in-line with being Ireland's second biggest city. Didn't hurt that I had a fantastic room in a brand new hotel with a giant picture window overlooking the River Lee. Also makes a convenient home base for tours of Blarney Castle (yes, I kissed the stone... I expect to break out in cold sores or some sort of rash at any time) and the Ring of Kerry, including Dingle Bay. Both were fantastic, though as the blood flow to my feet was cut off from the pressure on my knees from the seat in front, I remembered why I tend not to take coach buses. Pics up on Flickr - see the badge to the right for a few highlights.

Since I've been remiss in posting, I should also mention one of the highlights of my time in Dublin - the obligatory visit to the Guinness Storehouse. The building used to be the home of the fermentation process, but was converted to a very modern tourist facility that smoothly takes you through 7 floors starting with the brewing process and proceeding through the company history, transporation/distribution innovations, and a slew of advertising memorabilia. It's all well presented, but the clincher is the "free" (read: built into the entrance price) pint of Guinness at the top of the building in the Gravity Bar. With 360 degree views out over Dublin, it's a nice place to top off the experience, but really the brilliance is in getting you mildly tipsy before you leave. Just try and walk out with a negative impression at that point... "Arthur Guinness... I love you, man!". Also, I don't want to brag - but I was made an honorary apprentice, so I've got that going for me.

As for Limerick, I'm opting to leave a day early and head over to Galway. No offense, but I prefer the dirty poem.

Thanks a Million

Grabbed an Aer Lingus flight from Paris to Dublin earlier today. I saved the english-speaking leg of my trip until the end, knowing I'd be in dire need of some familiar language by the time I was 2 months in. It was a hot and humid day in Paris today - not my favorite kind, so I was overheated and miserable by the time I got to the airport. Then, I stepped on to the plane and was greeted by a smiling flight attendant who looked at my boarding pass, and said in that fantastic Irish accent "Thanks a million!". A smile suddenly crossed my face, and has pretty much been there ever since.

Leaving the airport, I grabbed a cab and totally confounded the driver by letting myself into the right hand side while he was looking off to the left wondering where I went. Note to self: In Ireland, driver's side is on the right. We eventually sorted it out, and continued on our way. Now, I'm a pretty laid back person (that may be an understatement), but the only way I can describe myself on the way to the hotel is 'giddy'. I was so excited to be somewhere with people defaulting to english, that I kept the cab driver talking the entire way there. Didn't hurt that he was friendly and sarcastic in typical Irish fashion.

Was dreading my search for dinner tonight, but kudos to Dublin for having a great selection of vegetarian restaurants - 2 of which happen to be a very short walk from my hotel in Temple Bar. I chose Cornucopia, and ventured out into the downpour that had formed. I know what you're thinking; "Rain.... in Ireland??" ("A tiger.... in Africa?" 2 points for placing that nerd quote). My stomach is now full of moroccan puy lentil tagine, brilliant side salads and a cheddar cheese scone and my smile...? Still wide. Ah, Ireland.

P.S. Has anyone ever been to a Haagen Dazs where they ask you to wait to be seated? That was a new one for me.

Portraits and Pirates

Yesterday, I finally made it down to the Musee d'Orsay, after cutting through the Tuileries to watch a few mini-sailboats afloat in the fountain, commanded by children with sticks.

Anyways, back to the museum. If you're not familiar, the Musee d'Orsay was originally a train station built to coincide with the Exposition Universelle in 1900. Platforms were too short for modern trains, so instead of being torn down it was eventually converted to a museum in the 1970s. Lucky for us European cities generally believe in preserving history. It's a fantastic space, open and airy as you'd expect - and so, much like the Getty in LA, I found myself more drawn to photographing the architecture than to the artwork itself. Though, unlike the Getty - there are some first-rate works here - so I did do some wandering through the impressionists and sculpture areas. Unfortunately, the Picasso exhibit and photography areas were closed off for renovation/additions. Food options for vegetarians were once again non-existent (would you like chicken, ham or chicken?), so I didn't last as long in the museum as I'd have liked.

After a little dose of french culture, I decided to take in a little high-end American artistic expression for balance. Headed east to Odeon and grabbed a slice of pizza before sitting down to watch Pirates of the Caribbean: At World's End. It's about what I expected - cheesy, trying unsuccessfully to switch between drama and comedy... Keira Knightly's attempted 'Braveheart'-style speech may have in fact been the funniest thing in the movie, though I'm going to assume that was unintentional. Still, it was visually pleasing and Jack Sparrow is always fun to watch... so, as a much-needed hit of American cinema, it did the trick. I noticed that the french theatres (at least the UGC chain) seem to reverse things and do previews first and the commercials second, just before the movie. Seems wise from a business perspective - more people in their seats while the commercials are running. However, gotta tell ya, from a consumer perspective - unbelievably annoying. Just hammers home my great joy in paying 9.50 (this time it's euros) to be advertised to for 20 minutes.

Off to Dublin tomorrow.

Tied at 1

After a day of knee recovery, I hit the mountains again today - this time with a little more mechanical assistance. First I rode the Aigulle du Midi cable car to 3842 meters (that's ~12000 feet or so) and stared down at the clouds and across at the tallest peak in Europe - Mont Blanc. Surprising number of climbers traversing the snow/glaciers on their way to the top.

Then, I spent about 30 minutes dangling alone in a small gondola crossing over to Point Hellbringer (ok, it's Hellbronner, but the nickname I gave it. It calls me VS1. Not very original, but what do you want, it's just a landmass) in Italy. Rather than break out my passport, I took a couple pics and headed back across again. I can honestly say that particular crossing is one of the most thrilling and most terrifying things I've experienced.

On my return, I dropped back down to the half-way point on the Aigulle du Midi cablecar, which is otherwise known as Plan de l'Aigulle - it connects you to the Grand Balcon Nord hike across the valley side of the mountains. Along the way, I was able to capture pics of the scene of Sunday's crime (my previous post), once back in Paris I'll put those up to explain my liberal use of f-bombs. Knee pain came back but I fought through it and finally reached the Mer de Glace glacier, which is just phenomenal. From there I took a leisurely ride on the rack and pinion Montenvers train back to Chamonix. Pics to come - if they don't blow your mind, I'll eat my camera. Mmm... shutter.

Alps 1 - Me 0

Yesterday managed to become a contender for the "Worst F'ing Day of my Life" award. If you know me, you know I don't swear a lot - even in PG-condensed-form, so that should make my point, but while I'm at it...

F you Tourist Office for having to close for 2 hours to eat lunch. F you grocery store for the same thing, only 3.5 hours. F you La Flégère cablecar. F you Lac Blanc. F you snow. F you rain. F you lightning. F you John for poor planning. Most importantly, F you left knee. That is all.

P.S. F you french keyboard for making me hit shift for a period. . . .

Accosted in Le Marais

Last night I couldn't sleep, so I was wandering the streets of Paris around 2am... the city of light is meant to be seen in the dark. I'm headed home up Rue des Archives when suddenly a group of guys starts hootin' and hollerin' (if you weren't aware, the Marais has a large gay population and nightlife). I had become the woman walking by a construction site - go figure. I chose to ignore them, but after a block or so I noticed a woman's voice joining the chorus and yelling out in English "Wait, wait, I'm a woman!".

What could I do? I turned around and started talking to them... first question out of their mouth "Are you gay?". When I answered in the negative, they decided to start pawning off their female friend on me... apparently they decided she needed more appropriate company than the 4 gay men she'd been with all night. Surprisingly enough, they were all really nice, albeit incredibly flamboyant and raunchy. I obliged and talked to their friend for a while as they disappeared down the street to another gay bar.. nothing beats random drunken conversation to liven up a sleepless Paris evening.

Tomorrow it's off to the Alps!

Pedaling Versailles

Versailles is fascinating. You step off the RER train into a bustling Paris suburb (apparently still occupied by the rich) but after a 10 minute walk, you are in a totally different world. Can only call it a world of beautiful excess - created by Louis XIV (with a little help from architects, painters, landscapers and Marie-Antoinette).

The Palace is suitably astounding, especially the Hall of Mirrors, and packed with gawking tour groups, as one would expect. However, the real sight for me was the gardens, still filled with 1700+ fountains, and Marie-Antoinette's pond side Hameau (or Hamlet) in the park. Beautiful on foot, but astounding by bike - since the sheer size means you really need transportation (or a lot of time and foot power) to get to the outlying areas, such as the end of the Grand Canal or Marie-Antoinette's estate. An estate which still includes a beautiful pond full of fish that fight with each other (and an occasional duck) for bread thrown from the pedestrian bridge, unusually calm swans, and a working farm with animals from the mainstream (chickens, ponies) to the exotic (peacock).

I spent 4 hours on the grounds, but could easily have spent 4 more biking around the incredibly quiet and serene grounds just 1 click away from tourist-central at the palace. In fact, I think I will - but no more attempted self-portraits while cycling.

La Defense and Montmartre

Haven't been in a posting mood for the last few days, but figured I'd break the radio silence with some pictures. Someone told me they speak 1000 words, so that makes this a very long post, am I right?

Montmartre

La Defense

And, just for laughs... Crazy Guy on the steps at La Defense

Bruxelles and Cuba

Now Reading: Echo Park (well, they can't all be European!)

Did them both in one day. Private jet? No, Hotel Welcome in Brussels... has 18 internationally themed rooms, so I spent the night in Cuba - minus the cigars and dictator.

Spent the day in Brussels today - coldest, rainiest weather I've seen my entire trip - but frankly it's a relief to have a few spring showers. If I wanted non-stop sun, I would have stayed in LA.

After a bit of time browsing the chocolates, beer and other belgian specialties on the Grand Place, I decided to pick up some frites (fries for the uninitiated), but passed on the mayo dip. They were terrific, as expect... actually reminded me of the thick chips I used to get from the chip trucks in Toronto as a kid.

With the gloom and cold in full effect, I broke one of my own travel rules and sought the easy warmth of a double-decker sight-seeing bus. Was a first for me, and just as lame a way to see the city as I expected. It's like watching the whole thing on TV. That said, not a bad way to get around to major sites since you can hop-on and hop-off all day.

Did 90 minutes of that... then hopped off and onto the metro in a hurry to try and catch the 15:00 tour of the EU parliament. Let me tell you, with all the giant poorly marked buildings in the region of the Schuman metro stop, they certainly don't make it easy to get there. Nor do the various security folk who were very nice, but I'm convinced just giving directions for the sake of giving directions - not really so focused on actually getting me where I needed to go.

I rolled up to the visitor entrance (after covering a good 2km in a mad dash) to the parliament right as the tour was commencing. Really consists of 30 minutes of canned audio guide and viewing of a couple spots and the main chamber... but it's still interesting to sit there and consider the meeting of 27 nations, speaking in 20+ languages. With that level of complexity, even the smallest things are interesting: as we sat there, the staff was putting handouts on the desk of each MEP (member of european parliament), and I realized as they skipped chairs that they must be handing them out in the local language of each member. So, every hand-out, every speech, every comment, has to be delivered in 20 languages (and growing). Poor interpreters. Oh, and the best part of the tour - it's free, and you get to keep the headphones. ;)

Stroopwafels

What is a Stroopwafel, you ask? Absolutely fantastic.

Arnhem, Oosterbeek and Poffertjes

I'm down visiting my Great Aunt in a little town called Oosterbeek - just outside of Arnhem (that's still in the Netherlands). Apparently when last we saw each other, she was teasing me (we think about the whole vegetarian thing, as usual) - and I was running off to escape it. That was 23 years ago, give or take, in Oakville.

We spent some time in town and the local park yesterday, as well as visiting with my Great Aunt Janine's daughter Janine, who is - what, also a great aunt? I don't know - all very confusing. In any case, she's an artist (I didn't realize it ran on both sides of my family), and had some really interesting stuff she was preparing for a local art exhibition. Also a fantastic swimming pool that is actually a man-made pond that maintains itself - as long as you don't mind swimming with the tadpoles inhabiting it, you get to avoid the whole chlorine thing. Also looks beautiful. Didn't have my camera on me, but will try to grab a pic before I leave.

Today we visited the National Park De Hoge Veluwe, which houses the Kroller-Muller museum, and also has a quaint little throw-back to NL's roots - 1500 free white bikes that anyone who enters the park can use to traverse the 40km of bike paths within. But perhaps most fascinating to me was the big patch of white sand and sand dunes in the middle of the park... it's surrounded by forest and seems completely out of place, but great fun to traverse.

Oh yes, on my way out of Haarlem, I stopped at a little Poffertjes stand in the main square. Poffertjes are a traditional dutch treat - basically little mini pancakes usually served with butter (lots of butter, it seems) and powdered sugar. Very tasty - give 'em a try when next you're in the area.

Haarlem

Decided to take a break from Amsterdam and head to Haarlem, a smaller town about 15 minutes to the west. Famous for housing Holland's oldest museum (Teylers) and of course, for giving that -other- Harlem it's name, back when New York was New Amsterdam. So far, I can honestly say I prefer the Dutch version to the American one.

Looking Back

Now Reading: Diary of a Young Girl by Anne Frank (link is to a diff. version, but close enough)

My current book felt like required reading after a visit to the Anne Frank house (see my leaf). Sure enough, it really does bring the house to life - and she was a great writer, especially for someone so young. I always felt that reading about 8 people stuck in the back of a house for 2 years would be a little dry, but because she doesn't hold back on her feelings, and since they do have some exposure to the events transpiring around them, it is a far more interesting glimpse than I imagined. The living accomodations were larger than I expected, but a prison is still a prison - and with 8 people, I imagine that space got eaten up fast.

Speaking of eating (worst... segue... ever), I decided to sample some ethnic Dutch food, but since that generally means meat, cheese, herring and pancakes.. I went with the other "Dutch", namely Indonesian, which I don't recall ever having before. Indonesia used to be a Dutch colony, and I'm told that there is some Indonesian in my bloodline, which may explain the dark hair. I digress. I went with a vegetarian menu that included corn soup, haricots (green beans) in some sauce, tempeh in some other sauce, corn fritter and something in a peanut sauce. I know, these decriptions are fantastic... mind like a steel trap. It was pretty good. Very similar to Thai.

Next I was off to the Van Gogh museum. Fascinating stuff... I love his use of color, and the way he employed pointillism in a more chaotic manner than most. Especially appreciated the self portrait with grey felt hat that he did in Paris in 87/88. That was enough museum for me for the day, maybe the Rijksmuseum a little later.

Nederlands

Arrived in Amsterdam last night. I've been staying in small hotels, but for the first time I'm actually staying in a hostel - my own room (if you can call it that, my walk-in closet in LA was bigger), but a shared bathroom. The accomodations are certainly nothing to write home (or to a blog) about, but the location is outstanding. Just behind Leidseplein, which is one of Amsterdam's liveliest squares... right around the corner from restaurant row and the major museums, and a short walk up to Dam square, shopping on Kelverstraat, the train station, etc.

I stopped at Wok and Walk for some quick-serve whole-wheat noodles w/ tofu, then at Australian for a waffle and what I assume is Australian ice cream which, I have to say, tasted strangely buttery. Buttery chocolate chip ice cream - that's a new one.

Today I did some window shopping on Kalverstraat, dropped by the Palace/Town Hall in Dam Square, had a quick 50cl of Holland's finest bier just off the square (where I discussed accents with my Brit waitress) and then over into the red light district. Grabbed some pictures of the Oude Kerk (old church, begun in about 1300) and then dropped my camera in my bag, as advised, before wandering the narrow alleyways housing the world's oldest profession. I also picked up an FAQ from the Prostitute Information Center... to share with those of you who have questions when I get back. ;)

The most interesting part? The fact that a daycare called Princess Juliana sits literally right next door to some women posing half-naked in windows underneath their red lights. I hope they offer sex-ed.

A Palace and a Pita

Begrudgingly left Cinque Terre a couple days ago... back to France. Paris does feel strangely like home, now. Except for all those people speaking french.

The spring showers have arrived, and frankly, I'm relieved. I'm also wet.. might be time to buy an umbrella.

Headed for the Latin Quarter today - specifically to the Jardin du Luxembourg which has been recommended to me by 2 parisians, now. I know when to listen. One told me that they often do photography exhibits on the fence surrounding the gate close to the Pantheon. Indeed they had one up focused on life in Africa. It was more composed of story-telling shots than it was "wow, look at that picture" shots... but interesting none-the-less.

The park itself isn't huge, but very nicely laid out.. felt relaxing even with the glut of people, and of course it has Luxembourg palace on the premises. I walked in to discover a bandstand with an orchestra playing to a very large crowd. Wandered past some statues, and more statues, and yet more statues, some baby ducks swimming in a fountain, a pond, people playing tennis and petanque, the statue of liberty (no, I'm not kidding), tons of green park chairs... oh and more statues.

After that, headed up to St. Michel to grab a falafel at Maoz. The rain started, so I ran for the relative cover of the trees in Jean-XXIII Square behind Notre Dame. Mmm... soggy falafel.

Had to abandon my plans to visit Le Grande Arche de La Defense - but will head there this weekend. Au revoir!

Taking a Hike

Honestly, I'm at a loss for words to describe the hike I took today. Other than to say that I've done my fair share of hiking, a lot of trails by coasts... and the walk I took between Vernazza and Riomaggiore today put them all to shame. Not even close. Helps that the trails for the most part are pretty rugged, and difficult - makes it feel more earned... especially that constant uphill part between Vernazza and Corniglia.

I also advise against carrying a large suitcase up the first part of the trail to some hotel that is at the top of the hill, but I'm Canadian, and when I see people in distress I have to help - comes with the citizenship.

Anyways, I'm going to let the pictures do the talking when I get back to Paris and upload them. My camera is still smoking... prepare for the glut of images.

The 5 Villages

Now Reading: Pompeii by Robert Harris (brings the ruins even more to life, should have read it first)

After a long train ride north, I arrived in Vernazza - the most talked-about of the Cinque Terre towns, and my home for the next couple of days. The train ride from La Spezia up the coast is such a tease... keeps flashing increasingly impressive sea views at you, then covering them with a tunnel. Thankfully, Vernazza has a pretty sweet sea view itself, and I imagine the hiking trails I wander along the coast tomorrow will be similar to or better than the train's vantage point.

Had a fantastic funghi pizza at the harbor, staring out at the water... then continued the staring sitting on some rocks just above the raging water. I went down onto the end of the harbor to take a few pics... it was wet, but I figured "what the heck". You know what happened next... a giant wave struck and soaked the bottom of my jeans and shoes, much to the amusement of those sitting nearby. All in a day's work... I got some great shots, so I'll live with wet feet.

Volcanic

I'm starting to second-guess my appreciation for an internet cafe-slash-bar. Or maybe realizing why people do this backpacking trip when they're 20 and immune from morning after-effects.

Anyways. I spent the day exploring ruins (both past and present-day ones - more on that later). Started on the Circumvesuviana local train to Ercolano, home of the Herculaneum ruins, Pompeii's less-visited, but apparently better-preserved cousin. I spoke about 10 seconds ago about modern-day ruins... welcome to Ercolano. Truly the dirtiest, ugliest Italian town I've seen to date. Not surprising given that it's a suburb of Naples, no beauty queen itself. That said, I have never seen streets so littered with giant piles of garbage... reminds me of some sand hills I used to climb and jump down as a kid near St. Catharines, ON. I had planned to visit the ruins here, grab a bus up to Visuvius, then come back to Pompeii. Unfortunately, the 2 tourist offices I visited couldn't agree on where the bus left from or when it left. The more trustworthy one said the last bus was leaving in about an hour, so I decided to skip Herculaneum this go-round (I'll get you next time, Herc.... next time!).

Believe it or not, the bus did show up - almost on time - and brought us up to the entrance to Vis... oh wait, he's taking a detour and stopping at some strange gift shop down a dead-end road on the mountain (pardon the mix of past and present-tense, teach - you know who you are). Well, how nice - some older gentleman welcoming us in 5 different languages and saying he'll be selling us the bus tickets, once we finish our 20 minute or so stop at his snack bar/gift shop. No one really knows quite what to do, but we talk a bit and I buy a bottle of water. Now on to the tickets - 7.30 euros... that seems higher than I remember reading about, but I don't have the book with me, so can't be sure, and I find it quite likely this bus driver could just leave me here with this twilight zone family and their 5 overly aggressive dogs. 7.30 it is. (P.S. Book said 3.10).

Finally arrived at the entrance to Mt. Vesuvius, which is mainland Europe's biggest active volcano (it's dwarfed, however, by Mt. Etna on Sicily) and of course - the one that both destroyed and preserved Pompeii. It's a fair hike up to the lip of the volcano, about 30-45 mins uphill on loose gravel/lava rock... yet is broken up by the random addition of gift shops on the way up, and at the very end of the trail. This is one of those times I would gladly trade away convenience to have a more pure experience, but regardless - with the clouds swirling around, it still has a great mysterious and ominous feel to it. Hoping my pics do it justice - to be posted when I get back to Paree.

Got back on a bus to Pompeii and befriended a nice young couple from Austria who have been traveling to a new country/city every year for 15 years together. Passed the time on the ride remarking at crazy Italian driving, the piled-up garbage in comparison to the cleanly streets of both Austria and Canada. They got off and headed back to Naples, I dove into the ruins. Really remarkable... at first glimpse, it felt like every other ruin I've been to, but when I started walking around and realized it still felt like a town... houses, public baths, temples, swimming pools, market, ampitheatre, etc.. it really sparked my imagination. Really could start to feel what it might have been like living there about 2000 years ago.

Back to Sorrento, back to the bar. ;) Until next time - live long and prosper. Oops, that's be Vulcanic. My bad.

Positively Positano

Got a little bit of a late start today - that's what I get for sitting in a bar all night. However, was still an eventful day - spent the early part getting familiar with Sorrento, and the afternoon in Positano climbing the streets. Highlights:

- Stray dog at the marina trying to find a way to the other side of the fence to play with some stray cats that were not as eager to have his company
- Guessing which stop on the local Campania bus line was actually Positano - not really caring because the views of the Amalfi coast were stunning
- Reading on the dock with feet dipped in the clear blue Tyrrhenian Sea
- The lack of pedestrian space at what the Positanans (is that a word?) like to call a bus stop - otherwise known as an intersection of 3 roads at the top of a cliff
- Meeting a tri-generation family (read: grandmother, mother, daughter) from Vancouver who are traveling Italy together for 19 days
- Crazy guy wandering in front of the patio where I was eating dinner - using his CD player as a cell phone and giggling like a school girl

One piece of parting advice - if you scare easily, do not ride in the seat behind the bus driver on the drive down the Amalfi coast. Whoa.

Settling into Sorrento

Ciao!

I'm sitting in a bar called Insolito on what I believe to be Corso Italia (cut me some slack, I've been wandering aimlessly for some time now), Sorrento's main drag. I haven't figured out why the keyboard is positioned below my knees, but otherwise - cool place.. sports bar/disco. I arrived in Naples this afternoon by EasyJet and caught a handy bus straight down to my home for the next few days. After an hour or so of confusion trying to find my B&B, I arrived at Villa Anna - and was shown to a private apartment, that frankly, is probably bigger and better equipped than my place in Paris. Beautiful place - behind a private gate, lemon trees at the ready, little bit off the beaten path, but very close to the center of town. Couldn't ask for more, and the price is incredible. Trust me.

Enjoyed a dinner for one outdoors at a nice little extremely tourist-friendly (as is most of Sorrento, btw) restaurant on Piazza A. Lauro. The pizza looked terrific and light (a look from last trip), in the way only southern Italy can do, but I had to go with the namesake Gnocchi Sorrento. Absolutely fantastic, as was the giant "glass" of house wine they served me.

I think I'm going to like this place. Now if you'll excuse me - my vodka tonic awaits.

Le Musee & Le Reservoir

Dropped by the Picasso museum yesterday, housed in the Hotel Sale mansion in the Marais. It's interesting, because while Picasso's more famous works are housed elsewhere, this place gives you a chance to witness his artistic development through the years, and see some of his more "flights of fancy" stuff - e.g. the paper-mache goat. Also shows off sketches/studies, sculptures that were in his studio, and even some photography. Also has a nice little cafe out back where I had a terrific (albeit marked up) tart au fraise.

In the evening, my new french friend took me to Le Reservoir - a great restaurant/bar with live music. Last night, it was "Liberty Doc" - so named, I found out, because the band members are also all doctors. They were quite good and, surprisingly, sung almost entirely in english. Apparently even non-english speakers here tend to prefer english music, I suppose because there's more of it to choose from. I Will Survive in a french accent was particularly enjoyable.

A Note on Pictures

Most of you will be happy to hear that I've narrowed down my trip pictures to a set of my personal favorites - much easier to peruse. You can get to them by clicking on any of the 5 shown in the little Flickr widget on the right-hand side.

I didn't like having my every fuzzy, badly lit picture available to the public - so I've made all the others private - available only to friends and family. If you just can't get enough of browsing them, join Flickr and add me as a friend and *poof* they'll be back. That is assuming you're actually a friend, of course. If not, well - tough.

Random Shopping in Paris

I left a somewhat necessary grooming item at home. It's now in storage in LA - little hard to get to.

So, with that - I went on a mission to find a new one in Paris. Just down the street from me on the corner of Rue de Rivoli and Rue des Archives is a major department store called BHV. Fascinating place - it seems to be a Saks meets Best Buy meets Home Depot meets Sears kind of store. Narrow description, I know - but not sure how else to help you picture it. I'm still at a loss around the logic of the Hardware/Perfume floor (I kid you not) but I suppose it's one way to keep couples shopping together. On the Kitchen remodeling and random small appliances floor - I found what I was after. Mission 1 accomplished - on to round 2.

Next step was picking up some guidebooks for the rest of my trip. I guess it failed to dawn on me that once I was here, finding english language travel books might be a challenge. There are a number of english language bookstores, but they seem to focus on specific genres, primarily fiction, rather than a full selection like a US bookstore. WH Smith came to the rescue, though - they have a full English language store near the Louvre, though the prices... ooo la la. Still, I got what I needed for Krakow, Prague, Germany, Amsterdam and Brussels - so Mission 2 accomplished.

Was there a mission 3? Can't remember - but I spent the rest of the beautiful sunny day wandering along the Seine and through the Tuileries.

Italian Coast - Take 2

Back in Paris for a week, but on May 8 - I am taking another run at Italy. Starting down in Sorrento - touring Pompeii, Capri and the Amalfi Coast. Then heading back to Cinque Terre, where I have actually managed to secure a room in Vernazza - apparently the best town to stay in. I guess it pays to plan ahead on occasion.

Cooking, Exploring and Eating (and Eating) in Tolfa

My last stop before my aborted/postponed Cinque Terre trip was Fontana del Papa, in Tolfa - a little hill town about an hour north of Rome. I stumbled across their site while searching for Veggie-friendly cooking classes in Tuscany. At first, I was hesitant, because I was set on being in Tuscany - not down near Rome. Thankfully, I had the good sense to change my mind and book with Assuntina and Claudio at FdP. I knew I had made the right decision when I got an e-mail from Assuntina just before my stay telling me she had discovered my blog and was following my adventures in Paris (she was a teacher in France in a past life).

I arrived at Fumicino airport from Barcelona, and was promptly picked up by Assuntina for the drive back to Tolfa. What a drive - only an hour outside of Rome, and we're suddenly on small winding roads cutting through hills where horses and various wildlife roam beside us. Assuntina tells me that a lot of it is public land where the owners of the animals pay "rent" to allow them to roam.

When we arrived at FdP, I was struck by the fact that not only did their villa look exactly like the pictures on their site - it was that much better in person. The result, I came to find out, of 3 years of hard work by Assuntina & Claudio to transform an abandoned, overgrown home with a collapsed roof into what can only be seen now as a luxury villa. I was amazed at the vision and commitment it must have taken to go from the before pictures they showed us to the end result I was now seeing.

I spent the afternoon wandering and taking pictures, before sitting down to a home-cooked meal with the only other guests staying at the same time - Arthur and Bobbie, an incredibly nice and well-traveled older couple from NJ. At first I found it strange that Assuntina, Claudio and the kids didn't join us - but I realized they were much too busy making sure everything was just right. Also - if you host people every day, I imagine you'd want a little time alone with your family.

The next day we awoke to an incredible breakfast of pastries/donuts, yogurt, cereal, bread, preserves, and fresh-squeezed blood-orange juice. I even got into the ritual of the morning cappuccino, despite not being a coffee drinker. After that, we were put to work for the first of our 3 cooking experiences - which took us from making and rolling pasta, to preparing sauce, to picking vegetables and greens from the garden, to making a vanilla cake. All under the (Italian-only) instruction of Gabriella - a great cook hired by the family. Despite the communication barrier, I got the distinct impression we did a pretty good job... and what fun is learning Italian cooking from someone who speaks english?

When not cooking, we were eating, when not eating, we were being endlessly escorted by Claudio and Assuntina to various local towns and attractions... the town of Tolfa and the Fortress of the Frangipane, the Etruscan painted tombs at the necropolis, and the accompanying museum in a palace in Tarquinia, a street market in Assuntina's hometown of Allumiere and of course a restaurant that clearly knows Claudio well and served us food for 12 people (there were only 4 of us), along with the best (and only) lemon gelato drink I've ever tasted in my life. This is the Italy you'd never see by following the beaten tourist path.

With all of that, it still managed to be the most relaxing part of my trip thus far... because really, it just felt like home (except for that Turkey who insisted on gobbling outside my window every morning - that doesn't happen often in LA). I think that's the highest praise anyone can offer for a trip like this.

My New Favorite Fast Food Place...

http://www.maozveg.com/

Best of all, it started in Holland. Apparently one just opened in Union Sq. in NYC, for you state-siders who want to check it out.

The Best Laid Plans...

You know what they say about the best laid plans. Well, that has absolutely no applicability to the position I found myself in yesterday. I'd been having trouble booking a hotel in Cinque Terre, so when I finally found availability at an expensive hotel in La Spezia for 1 night, I grabbed it and figured being local I could get some help finding a hotel in Vernazza or Monterosso, right in the 5 towns. Problem is, there was absolutely nothing to be found - I hadn't taken into account that it was an Italian holiday weekend, and the locals had been a little smarter and booked ahead.

(Aside - did you know Italy celebrates the end of World War II with an official "Liberation Day" holiday? That was last week - it's Labor day that's gumming up the works now, but I find it interesting none-the-less)

I felt a bit of a cold coming on, so rather than go hang out in Milan and wait for the holiday to pass, I decided to high-tail it back to Paris and do a second take on Italy in about a week and a half. So, here I sit - finally with access to a real computer/connection again, so more updates to come.

P.S. Passed through the Alps in the daylight for a change - amazing - can't wait to get back for my hike in June.

The Two+ Faces of Madrid

Whew - time flies. I'm sitting in an ¨easyInternetcafe¨ on La Rambla in Barcelona. My previous attempts to post updates were thwarted by a computer in Zaragoza that liked to randomly shut down during long blog posts (that sound you hear is me knocking on wood).

My time in Spain began in Madrid - which also turned out to be the most interesting stop. First, a quick background... my friend Michelle was kind enough to come out and visit me for the Spain part of my trip (and do most of the planning - that was a welcome relief). I think it's fair to say that Madrid had us running the gamut of impressions/feelings. Starting with underwhelmed, moving on to happy and relaxed, followed by surprised, angry & frustrated.

Allow me to explain. Madrid at first glance is a little dry... some nice architecture, but mostly just a bustling metropolis like any other. Don't ask me what I was expecting... that's just my first impression. As we walked around a little and discovered a few plazas, back alleys, bridges, Cathedrals and especially Parque del Retiro, the city started to grow on me. Sitting in the park, sun up, beer in hand, boats rowing by on the lake a few feet from us - hard not to appreciate the setting... cue happiness and relaxation.

The next day we're sitting at an Internet cafe (one of my many attempts to post to this blog) and a woman bumps into my chair while sitting in the one behind me. I push forward thinking nothing of it, but not 2 minutes later we get up to leave and Michelle has an awful realization - her wallet is gone. So is the woman who sat down behind us. Doesn't take a lot to figure out what happened there... especially with Spain's reputation as a haven for pick-pocketers. Cue surprise and anger. Unfortunately, despite growing up in NY, Michelle dropped her guard for a second and that's all it took. Not surprisingly, the guys at the internet cafe were completely uninterested in helping - suggesting only that we check the garbage cans outside, as naturally the thief probably just wanted the cash and would toss it as quickly as possible. Problem is, the garbage cans were all covered and locked. The policia we flagged down spoke little english and suggested we call and file a report on some english line. Cue frustration. I'll spare you details of the rest of the day, but suffice it to say it was not spent exploring museums like first planned.

All in all, Madrid provided some good exploration, some good meals, and some good opportunities to relax in true Spanish style - unfortunately the prevelance of petty crime and apparent disinterest in doing anything about it overshadowed and spoiled any positives.

P.S. Pics to come as soon as I find a computer that will let me upload them.

Spain & Italy

Leaving for Madrid today, then on to Barcelona, cooking school north of Rome and Cinque Terre. Any recommendations?

Posts will be a little more sparse while I'm in the road. Back in Paris in early-mid May.

June 6, 1944

I visited Caen and the Normandy landing beaches yesterday. Everything I read said I'd need more than a daytrip from Paris to really appreciate all that there is to see and fully understand the history. I can definitely confirm that's true. Unfortunately, I only had a day - but thankfully with a skilled guide, I was still able to take in a fair bit of the history.

Unlike Vimy Ridge, I don't think anyone needs a recounting of D-Day. It's one of those moments that everyone remembers, and it's amazing to me how one day can so impact the memory surrounding an entire region. While life goes on, and builds up around the area (what's with the big houses with bay windows and the Hotel/Casino overlooking Omaha Beach?), it is still unmistakably the place where so many thousands died in one dramatic moment in history.

Even 60+ years later, it's hard not to be moved standing in the American Memorial Cemetary at 4:30 while they lower the US flag to the playing of Taps. Clearly everyone there felt the same way, as a hush fell over the area and lasted quite a while. It's equally hard not to be awed, and strangely proud, standing on Omaha beach looking up at the high cliffs, still littered with German gun emplacements, that the Americans had to contend with when they landed that day.

"Never in the field of human conflict, has so much, been owed by so many, to so few!" - Winston Churchill

Pictures.

Remembering Vimy Ridge

In case you didn't know, I'm Canadian. And though I got this strange desire to look up the "I Am Canadian" commercials earlier today (check out Shatner's version), I am not going to go on a rant.

Rather, I mention it because there was an event 90 years ago that a lot of people look at as a key moment in defining Canada as a country -- both to the global community and to ourselves. It happened Easter Monday in 1917, in Northern France, at a place called Vimy Ridge. A strategic vantage point held by the Germans in WWI - one that seemed inassailable, based on the failure of both the French and British to recapture it earlier in the war. However, on that day 90 years ago, the four divisions of the Canadian Corps, fighting as one single force for the first time, captured Vimy Ridge. This was a key milestone for Canada, but also for WWI, because the vantage point provided by the ridge was extremely important in repelling German attacks in the area throughout 1918.

I am certainly not reciting this from memory, though we obviously learned it in Canadian history. I decided to research it when I had the embarassing realization that the 90th anniversary was being celebrated just north of me, and I remembered next to nothing about what took place there. And while I have been planning a trip to the beaches of Normandy, I had completely ignored the history of Vimy. Needless to say, I will be visiting the newly restored monument while I'm in France, and doing a better job of remembering the sacrifices made by our countrymen.

-The Vimy Memorial

Cheers to New Friends

Yesterday was my birthday. (Did you send a present?)

I expected to spend it alone in Paris, which would not be the worst thing in the world, and a reasonable price to pay for a spring trip to Europe.

As fortune would have it, though - I met a new local friend on Wednesday, and after dinner and drinks on the Champs Elysees, she was kind enough to offer to take me out again for my b'day - this time to a relatively newly built up part of the 12th arrondissement (what's an arrondissement you ask? Click.), and a little 'plaza' called Bercy Village.

Coming from the Marais, and central Paris - it was strange to see this area, but also kind of comforting to see a part of the city that looks like any other city. The 'interior' of Bercy Village is still unique, but not that far removed from the feeling of a Carmel or Santa Barbara. Outside its boundaries, it's freeways, apartments and office buildings. There's also a Starbucks, which is apparently still a recent addition to Paris life.

Had a great asparagus risotto (mine is better, but a fair runner-up) at a wine bar/restaurant called Chai 33, and then drinks at a bar called, yes, The Frog. My new friend ran into someone she knew, and invited him over - hilarious guy, who entertained us with stories about visiting America (for example, a Texan who talked to him on a plane for 20 mins before asking him about his accent. Upon learning he was french - he immediately turned and went silent the rest of the trip) and explained french women to me.

It all seemed kind of surreal as I walked back through the now quiet, dimly lit streets of the Marais - but all in all, nice way to spend a birthday.

Parlez Vous Anglais?

An aside... it's true what they say about Paris, outside of the tourist zones, people really do not speak english. Who knew shopping for groceries and allergy medication could be an adventure? And who knew saying "Quoi?" over and over again wouldn't solve it? I'm going to have to start watching some TV en francais.

Touring Le Marais (with just a touch of Ile de la Cite)

Three days in and I'm falling behind on posting already - doesn't bode well for you avid readers out there (there must be at least one of you, right Larry?).

The weather in Paris has been absolutely beautiful - nice spring days, very comparable to being home in MDR. I had planned to hit a few museums on the right bank, but once I started walking, I couldn't convince myself to go inside - so focused on just seeing a little more of the Marais.

The walk in pictures...

Started out just downstairs from my apartment at the Marche des Enfants Rouges (Market of the Red Children? Don't ask me.). It was built in 1615 under the rule of Louis XIII - which makes it the oldest market in Paris, and older than America or Canada, for that matter.

After that I beelined for Place des Vosges, another gift from Louis XIII which houses some amazing architecture, Victor Hugo's house, and a great little park. Park is interesting in that it's split into 4 quarters, and it seems people are allowed to sit and hang out on 2 of them... but not on the other 2. At least that's my assumption based on the people crammed into one side, while the green lay bare on the other. Did I mention that my beeline was actually in the exact opposite direction, and took me out past my map's range before I realized what had happened? Ups and downs to this while untouched street system in the Marais, to be sure (Yes, I'm blaming it on the streets - let's see them dispute it). Ahem, Place des Vosges... what used to be upscale housing for Paris' elite is now a great combination of cafes and boutiques, and a not as great section of boarded up emptiness that made me feel like I was in a lonely back alley just steps away from the bustling part of the square.

From PdV (as those in the know like to call it - at least I assume so) I wandered south across the bridge to Ile St Louis, where you can get right down by the Seine and wander under the bridges. Mysterious sight as you do so... there are tents set-up for the homeless - apparently given by Doctors without Borders to shelter people during winter/harsher times of the year. Wondered if they'd let me set up a tent on the beach in MDR... I could probably put in some hardwood floors and turn it around for $500k.

As I crossed over to Ile de la Cite, I ran into this cute older couple - the guy was playing violin while his wife/partner held the sheet music. He was quite good - so many of us were trying to take his picture, as you'll see by my fellow cameraman caught in this pic.

At Notre Dame, I just hung out and enjoyed a Crepe au fromage in Jean-XXIII Square, before heading back home for another baguette w/ gouda.

Bonjour Paris

I have arrived in Le Marais! To commemorate, here's a picture of me with everything I own for the next 3 months...

Score One For Canada

I like to think of myself as spontaneous. Sto says I'm more of a calculated risk-taker. The reality is, I just hate planning ahead. Which left me about a week away from my 3-month trip to Europe with no plane ticket (don't even ask how my packing is going). I always assume that some combination of searching, air miles, airline elite status, etc. will get me a ticket anywhere I want to go at a reasonable price. And, within North America, I've always been right.

Paris - not so much. Prices have skyrocketed since I was last there, and even piecing together my own connections and flying airlines I'd never heard of (Air Tahiti Nui from LA to Paris - what?), I couldn't get it to the level I wanted.

Then I had a brainstorm... Canada. The mother land. Surely my kindler, gentler nation would not be as inclined to gouge fliers under the guise of rising oil prices. And, wouldn't you know it - like a trusty old friend I haven't seen in a while, Air Canada still delivered. They had fares from Toronto at HALF the price of any US airline, even compared to other east coast ports. Factor in a cheap flight from LA to TO, and I still saved a bundle.

Now at the end of my trip, I'll be hanging in Toronto for a while and visiting folks around the east coast that I didn't get to see before leaving.

For those keeping score... Canada 1 - US 0.

No Longer Homeless

As expected, I managed to come up with an apartment in Paris that I'm more excited about than the last.

Still in Le Marais - apparently across the street from a street market. Couple pics for the curious..


On April 9th, you'll get one of me sitting in that living room.

Now Reading: Lonely Planet's Walking in the Alps, Let's Go London City Guide.

Bad News, Good News

First, the bad. URGENT e-mail comes from Paris Attitude to tell me that the apartment I was supposed to rent has been sold by the owner and I can no longer rent it. Strangely, the agency knew it was for sale but had taken the owner's word that it would not be an issue and had never disclosed this to me. Negligence or Greed? You be the judge.

The good, at least it was 2 weeks before my trip - not the day of. Ok, that hardly qualifies as good news - but every problem is a lesson, and I've certainly learned mine. End of the day, I've found some apartments I'm more excited about - so hopefully one of those will come through.... and FAST.

My advice to anyone trying to work with a Paris rental/vacation agency - start early, ask every question you can possibly think of, despite it seeming silly (now including "is the unit for sale?") and get signed paperwork immediately... oh, and it would help if you have a very large budget and can communicate en francais.

Mangia Mangia

Lazio, April, Me...

Let's cook in Italy!

Vous Aiment des Pommes Frites Avec Cela?

At first glance through a Google search, you'd think booking an apartment in Paris for a few months would be easy. There are many agencies, all specializing in short-term furnished rentals in one form or another. In fact, their sites are even quite good - Paris Attitude, Paristay and Lodgis in particular. The first name may give you a chuckle but, truthfully, it was a pretty accurate sign of what was to come.

The problem is that in this business, as in most others, a good website does not make up for poor process and customer service. The sites were extremely helpful in getting a feel for what was out there, what I could get on my budget, what I should expect in each neighborhood, etc. I browsed pictures, I searched different price ranges, I compared areas, I sent links to friends for opinions, and ultimately I sent in request forms with a few places that fit my needs.... and then, I waited. And waited. Got a cold. Waited. Sent a follow-up e-mail. Waited. Gave notice on my current apartment. Waited s'more.

6 days later - no response from Paris Attitude, so I decide to try Paristay and my second choice unit. Next day, there it is - responses from both. The note from Paris Attitude begins...

Merci pour votre demande et pour l’intérêt que vous portez à Paris Attitude.

Err. Hmm. No, it did not turn to english later on... despite their site being targeted at english speakers and all my correspondence being in english, they decided the best course of action was to respond en francais. Long story short, I speak enough french that I responded to their questions, found out that this gentleman only handled 1-6 week rentals (though I clearly requested 3 months) and was handed to his colleague. What happens next? I wait.

Meanwhile, Paristay is reporting that I likely can not have the unit I requested because it's currently open, and they ask for my second choice among a few other suggestions - none of which match what I want. I ask them to check with the owner on the first, because I'm not clear why he'd give up a 3 month rental starting in April instead of March, but I also sent a new second choice. Here's the full, helpful, clearly customer-oriented response:

Neither can work. Please advise.

Maybe I expect too much, but I advised that I would not be working with them anymore.

Anyways, in the end - Paris Attitude has come through 2 weeks later with a reasonable unit that I am about to complete the paperwork on. Here's a pic of the place and the street in Le Marias, which is home to the oldest/most historic parts of Paris:


It's tempting to believe the French stereotype is true based on this experience. Then, I think back to trying to deal with cable and phone companies here and I realize no single country holds the patent on incompetence and rudeness - it's an equal opportunity affliction.

Next!

A Sign?

About 5-6 months ago, when I was first thinking about taking this trip, I got a little encouragement during a lunch at Pacific Restaurant in VA...

It has been in my wallet ever since, as you may have guessed by the "character" that has been added. Then just yesterday, as I realized time is short and I need to start planning in earnest, a dinner at PF Chang's produced this...

Is it a sign? Or have I just ignored every fortune in between in order to find meaning in these two? I choose the former, because the latter would really defeat the purpose of this entire post, no?